A widely used fixative in
perfumes, patchouli's rich, earthy aroma provides an olfactory bridge
between floral and herbaceous oils. Add a few drops to sweet almond oil to
create a nourishing treatment for dry skin.
Some would say that
patchouli is the most distinctively fragranced herb in the botanical
kingdom. The first whiff of its rich, exotic scent never fails to become fixed
forever in the olfactory memory.
The plant that produces this remarkable aroma
is a tropical member of the lamiaceae family. Distant relatives include
lavender, rosemary and many other herb plants associated with more temperate
regions. Patchouli seems to have moved south and suffused itself in the
mysterious aromas of a dark and steamy jungle while retaining a hint of the
sunny, herbal fragrances of its northern Mediterranean cousins.
Patchouli was first described by botanists in
the Philippines in 1845. Today growing interest in its fragrance has led to
patchouli's widespread cultivation throughout tropical Asia.
True patchouli has hairy stems, flowers only
reluctantly, and is usually propagated by cuttings. A second species, Pogostemon
heyneanus, known as Java patchouli, has smooth stems and flowers. Java patchouli
has an inferior aroma and may show up as an adulterant in the whole leaf form or
the distilled oil. Plants available from herb nurseries labeled as Pogostemon
cablin often turn out to be Pogostemon heyneanus.
Patchouli has long been used as a moth
repellent in Asia. This practice may have been responsible for its introduction
to Europe in the early 1800s. At that time imported goods like silk shawls and
India ink arrived redolent with the smell of patchouli in European ports. In
time the presence of the aroma came to be regarded as an indicator of genuine
oriental goods. Around 1844 the first shipment of dried patchouli leaves reached
London and savvy (or sneaky!) local manufacturers began using the plant to scent
their own versions of expensive imported goods.
It wasn't long before patchouli oil's
remarkable staying power made it an important fixative ingredient in the
manufacture of fine perfumes and cosmetics. A fixative is a substance that
combines well with the other ingredients in a blend, slowing down the
evaporation of the fragrance and making it last longer when applied as a
personal essence. The increased demand helped create an industry of patchouli
farming and distillation in tropical Asia that persists to the present.
Patchouli is usually grown on small forest
plots by individual farmers who harvest and dry the leaves, then sell them to
distilleries throughout the growing region. The still operators buy many lots of
dried leaves and combine them into one steam distillation, the results of which
may then be combined with successive distillations until they've obtained
sufficient quantities of oil.
Newly distilled patchouli oil has a fresh,
green, slightly harsh aroma. As the oil ages it mellows considerably, becoming
sweeter and more balsamic. Patchouli is one of very few oils that, like fine
wine, improve with age. High quality patchouli oils emit a suave, fruity,
wine-like top note when uncapped. Other oils that age well are sandalwood and
vetiver, both of which blend quite nicely with patchouli.
Adulteration of patchouli is less common than
with other essential oils. The relative ease of its cultivation and generous
yield of oil (up to 3.5% under ideal conditions) substantially removes the
temptation for unscrupulous suppliers to adulterate it. (In contrast a product
like rose oil yields just 0.2% essential oil.) Heavy cedarwood or spicy
clove-like notes may indicate that patchouli oil has been tampered with, usually
as a result of a bad crop year or when demand outweighs supply.
Patchouli is most often used in aromatherapy.
The dried leaves and stems are employed in traditional Chinese medicine to
normalize the flow and balance of the life force known as qi (or chi).
An aromatherapy blend inspired by the
traditional Chinese use can evoke a feeling of gentle clarity and inspire the
harmonious flow of emotional energy. It uses oils with balancing and mildly
energizing aromas.
In aromatherapy patchouli is often used as a
relaxant. The warmth and depth of its aroma make it comforting and relaxing.
Patchouli's relaxing attributes, coupled with its rich and exotic nature, have
led to its inclusion in sensual and amorous blends, particularly appropriate for
products like massage oil. For these applications patchouli combines well with
ylang ylang, jasmine, sandalwood, vetiver and rose. Let your senses and personal
tastes guide you in creating a concentrated blend of these sensual oils. Or use
patchouli alone as a sensually evocative and deeply relaxing fragrance.
Patchouli's distinctive scent can always be relied upon to evoke a marked
aromatherapeutic response.
Exotic Patchouli
The earthy piquant aroma of patchouli has
served the perfume industry as a base note for many years. Its tenacious aroma,
along with its ability to blend with many other oils and fragrance compounds,
makes it indispensable for perfumers as well as aromatherapists.
The unmistakable aroma of patchouli began to
waft its way into western society in the early 1800s. At that time very costly
imported Indian fabrics would arrive at the ports of Europe exuding the
mysterious aroma of patchouli then considered a hallmark of genuine oriental
goods.
Patchouli's evokes the turbulent era of the
60s and early 70s, when it was widely used in perfume and incense. The intense
response summoned by patchouli made the oil an appropriate signature scent for a
time of polarization: love and hate, war and peace.
Where Does Patchouli Come
From?
Patchouli oil is steam distilled from the leaves of a tropical member of the
mint family known as Pogostemon cablin, which grows primarily in Indonesia and
the Philippines. Before distillation takes place the leaves are partially dried,
stacked and bailed. This causes a slight fermentation which weakens the
microscopic oil-bearing cell walls, thus ensuring a greater yield of oil from
the distillation.
A Different Kind of
Patchouli
Patchouli oil is distilled outside the growing region, using imported, cured
plant material, yielding a considerably different oil: pale orange, spicy-sweet
and herbaceous. This seems to result from the recycled iron drums used by native
distillers, which impart a dark brownish-red cast to the oil. Other differences
in the oil may result from increased curing time as the bales of patchouli make
their slow journey overseas to distilleries in Europe and the U.S.
Patchouli is thick, viscous, sticky and very
slow to volatilize. High-quality oils possess an elusive, wine-like, floral
sweet topnote. This topnote commands more of a presence as the oil ages
(approximately one year from distillation.) The bodynote is incredibly rich,
intensely sweet, woody, balsamic and earthy. The aroma can cling to a perfume
blotter for weeks.
Patchouli's Use in
Aromatherapy
Aromatherapists use patchouli for a variety of therapeutic effects. The oil is
of great benefit to the skin. For this application it blends well with lavender,
rosemary and tea tree oils. Patchouli is relaxing, uplifting, sensual and
exotic.
This simple blend makes a relaxing, sensual
and richly fragrant aroma for massage or bath. Add the oils directly to a warm
bubble bath, or dilute them with 1-2 tablespoons of a vegetable carrier oil --
such as jojoba or sweet almond -- for a luxurious massage.
In fragrance work, patchouli blends well with
woody oils such as
sandalwood,
rosewood and
cedarwood. In citrus blends it can help balance and ground the fresh, crisp
topnotes. Patchouli serves as an excellent base to floral blends in combination
with oils like
geranium,
lavender,
rose,
neroli and
clary sage. Patchouli's balsamic note produces interesting effects when
combined with other balsamic oils, especially
myrrh.
Creating a Personal
Essence with Patchouli
The following recipe will produce a distinctive and adaptable bodynote for a
personal essence. Its rich, floral aroma can be lightened with the addition of
complementary topnotes like lavender or lemon. The rose heart of the essence can
be developed into a more complex floral note with the addition of neroli or
jasmine. Clove and cinnamon will produce a more spicy fragrance.
Patchouli's intriguing history, exotic origin
and unique attributes make it an essential oil of many uses. The oil is an
outstanding base note for all types of perfume and aromatherapy blends. Its
therapeutic aroma is soothing and sets the mood for a sensual, exotic
experience.
*Above statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease.
